You gotta hear this talking parakeet

What if I want to breed my parakeets? Let's start with the basics.

First off, they can not breed before 6 months of age. However, most people recommend you wait till at least a year of age before breeing your parakeets. Also, the male and the female usually have to be together for a long time before they will breed. Some parakeets will never breed with each other. Others will instantly breed together. For the most part, parakeets will need to develop a relationship with each other before they will breed.

Also, before you plan to breed your parakeets you need to make sure they are on a heatlhy diet. You should include fresh fruits, along with normal feed. Also, a cuttle bone and some sort of calcium suplement will help the female recoup nutrients lost in the egg laying process.

Make sure you have ample room to breed your parakeets in. Most people recommend getting a larger cage  when deciding to breed your birds. However, make sure it is at least 20" x 20" x 20". Most recommend a multi-tier cage with room for a large nest. These are luxuries, but if you can afford it then by all means please give your parakeet the best experience you can. These luxuries will help your bird feel safer and be less stressed and this will make the whole breeding/birthing process go much smoother.

Female Parakeets are known to be quick egg layers and it may surprise you how fast your female parakeet starts laying eggs. Usually they will lay 4 to 8 and its not usual for them to lay one every day or every other day until they are finished.  Also, incubation times varies from 17 to 20 days. However there have been several cases where it was a few days one way or the other. This is no concern, and normal.

There are a few things to consider about the new hatchlings. If the parakeet babies are to be tamed as pets, many breeders will only let the parents raise the chicks until they are weaned. During this time, they will handle the chicks now and then to get them used to human hands. Most baby parakeets will be weaned by the age of 6 weeks, and you can then remove them from the parents and interacted with on a one-on-one basis. Baby parakeets that are trained this way are known to be faster learners and better pets overall.

How do Parakeets sleep?

**this is an excerpt from an article at http://www.lisashea.com/petinfo/sleep/**

Parakeets need to sleep 10-12 hours every day. The vast majority of this is done at night. It is critical that your parakeet get enough sleep so that it can be a happy, healthy bird. Please do not try to keep your parakeet awake at night to "party" with you. That is not healthy for your parakeet!


Parakeets in the wild sleep in hollowed out trees. Your cage needs to resemble that safe, comfy, sleep location when the parakeet is ready for bed. To help with that feeling, the cage should be covered with a cloth so it is dark and they feel safe. It should be quiet, dark, and at a comfortable temperature. There should not be any breezes blowing through the cage, either from a fan, air conditioner, or othwerwise.

Parakeets also take naps during the day when it is quiet. They will often stretch and yawn before falling asleep, or after waking up. Parakeets fluff up before they sleep. They are trapping warm air in their feathers. This turns their feathers into a built-in feather blanket, so they are warm and cozy while they sleep.

In summary, you need to make sure and cover your parakeet's cage so that it resembles a real hollowed out tree. This will also make your parakeet feel safe. Also, don't keep your parakeet up all night to "party". Make sure your parakeet gets 10 to 12 hours of rest to remain healthy.

Introducing Bonnie; my pet parakeet

Bonnie is very unusual in many ways. For starters, she's a real albino parakeet. She is completely white and has red eyes. Also, unusual to female parakeets, she is very vocal. This may be due to playing with Clyde. However, like most female parakeets, Bonnie is a little stubborn. She doesn't take to training as quick as Clyde and she still gets a little spooked at times.  She is getter better though, and I think with time she'll very an excellent pet.

She doesn't "talk" yet but she loves to chirp up a storm. I let them sit on top of my laptop when I work and Bonnie will let you know when she's likes a song I am listening to. She'll start chirping along. I hope eventually she'll start singing along.

Bonnie's favorite activity is chirping and kissing with Clyde. I'd say chirping along with the radio is her second favorite. I hope someday in the future these two beautiful birds will reproduce. I'm very interested in seeing the colors.

About my pet parakeet Clyde

I have two pet parakeets, and today I am going to tell you about my male parakeet "Clyde". He is Green, Yellow, and Blue. He is very handsome. He like to chirp and whistle, although he hasn't learned to talk yet. Clyde's favorite toy is the swing at the top of the cage. Clyde can often be seen hanging upside down from this swing. He also loves looking at his reflection in the mirror. (Can't say I blame the little fella) Clyde is very smart and he knows how the open the door to their cage. He hasn't figured out how to open it long enough to get out though.

What he does is he will grab the bottom of the door with his beak and lift his head up and raise the door. He just hasn't figured out out to transition from it being in his mouth to going through the door. When let out of his cage Clyde likes to perch in front of the window and taunt the other birds that may come near. He will start chirping up a storm. I need to get a video of him posted on here doing it.

As I'm writing this Clyde is swining away on the swing then jumping to the perch and repeating. I think I'm going to watch him play for awhile . . .

Tomorrow I'll tell you about his girlfriend "Bonnie".

A Beautiful Blue Parakeet

Tips From Folks Who Travel With Their Bird

This Post is by Mitch Rezman http://www.windycityparrot.com/

Before we get into specifics, let's start with the basics. Emergencies aside, if you're planning to travel with your bird, get the travel cage a few weeks in advance. This will give your bird time to get accustomed to the new cage. Also measure - measure - measure. Make sure it will fit in where ever it will be going car, travel trailer, family vehicle, motor home, commercial airliner, vacation cottage - just make sure it fits.

We don't have a flock, we have one small Indian Ringneck - Sunshine. Sunshine is 17. Catherine acquired him as a baby. He loves being with mom. We know about traveling with a bird. At home he has a 30 x 30 California cage (1), a large playstand (2) in the dining room and another playstand (3) in the kitchen. Every work day Sunshine climbs into his custom, 18 inch long carrier (4) and comes to work with us.

We open the carrier, he climbs up his Booda perch in to his 26 x 20 HQ cage (5) and finishes breakfast. Afterwards he'll walk back out via the Booda perch onto his King's acrylic playstand (6). When he gets bored he fly's onto his Prevue playstand (7) or his Prevue 20 x 20 wire cage (8) where he'll stand so he can watch mom oversee the shipping of packages to our customers.

We spend many of our summer weekends at a campground. When we get there he usually goes right into his 18 x 18 (9) Prevue cage. We modified our small travel trailer so the cage fits nicely into a closet where we removed the top of the door and provided a gentle light. When we're outside the trailer, we have a large canopy/tent where Sunshine spends time in his 32 x 21 HQ aviary (10) under the canvas. He always has one side of his cage against a wall for his own privacy.

If you've been following my notes, you'll see our little 3 ounce bird has 10 cages and stands. We've never had a problem getting him into a new cage because 1) we don't make of an issue of it and 2) he's happy just to be with us.

A travel cage can be metal, fabric or plastic like - rigid or collapsible. Because it's a travel cage only makes it slightly different than his home cage. If it's metal, bar spacing should be appropriate. If it's fabric, the fabric should be durable enough and well designed to discourage chewing. Clear plastic cages allow for great vision but may be confining for extended travel periods. It may only have one perch instead of three or four. Make sure it's comfortable on the feet. Stopping and starting in traffic should not cause your bird discomfort. A couple of small toys should be introduced to keep birdie boredom down. If you're traveling by auto, keep the bird in the back seat away from airbags in case of "god-forbids." Keep it strapped with a seatbelt to avoid sudden movement.

If your driving at night, cover the cage, the intermittent glare of auto lights can be scary, especially if its after bed time. If you're taking a road tip stopping at motels, find a place to put the travel cage where you bird can sleep with as little disturbance as possible through the night. We usually find the bath room counter to be the best spot, it's out of the way and once the cage is covered, affords privacy. In terms of temperature, it's simple - if your comfortable, your bird is comfortable. No hot cars with the window cracked or in front of air conditioners in hotel rooms.

If traveling for the first time, we suggest a few trial runs before the big trip. Go to a friends, the vet or even just a ride, the bird gets accustomed to the procedure, travel process and change in general. If you let the bird out of the travel cage while in the vehicle don't forget to put him back before any passengers open the door. Some birds don't like to poop in their travel cage. This is a judgment call. Choose carefully where you'll let them out to poop. You also may want to check out the nearest avian vet to your destination, before you get there - just so you have the info.

Remember. birds in the wild are natural travelers. Larger birds will fly 50 or miles per day seeking food. Many migrate thousands of miles twice annually. It's usually less of an issue for the bird than for you. Lastly, we know you love showing off your bird. Unknown places would not be the time to do it. Unscrupulous people may have ulterior motives. While traveling with your bird it's no ones business but your own.Have a great trip

Vital Stats for the Quaker Parakeet

This is an excerpt from an article by Donald Brightsmith that was orginally published in Bird Talk Magazine.

Quaker Parakeet Vital Statistics

Latin Name: Myopsitta monachus (Myo = fly, psitta = parrot, monachus = monk)

Other Names: Monk Parakeet, Cotorra (Spanish), Caturrita (Portuguese)

Total Length: 11.5 inches

Wingspan: 21 inches

Weight: 90 – 140g

Incubation: 24 days

Clutch size 5 – 7 average 6 *

Fledging: 40+ days in Argentina, 50 in captivity

Stay with adults: 3 – 12 months *

Age at first breeding: 50 – 65% breed in second year *

Percent of wild population that breed: 37 – 60% *

Percent that relay after lost clutch: 20 – 35% *

Proportion that raises two broods: 5% *

Lifespan: 12 – 15 years (in captivity)

Survival: 61% first year, 81% for adults (in the wild) *

Young fledged per nesting pair: 1.5 *

Percent of eggs laid that fledge young: 25% *

* All data are from wild populations in Argentina unless otherwise noted. From Spreyer and Bucher 1998.
*article source: http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/Monk%20Parakeets.html

How to Figure out which species of Quaker Parakeet you have

This is an excerpt from an article by Donald Brightsmith that was orginally published in Bird Talk Magazine.

Which subspecies of Quaker do you have? Most experts list 4 different subspecies see the list below to get an idea what your bird may be.

Myiopsitta monachus monachus:

Range: Se. Brazil, Uruguay and ne. Argentina

Wing length (measured from the bend of the wing to the tip of the longest primary): 14.1-16.1 cm

Weight: 120 g

Note: Largest subspecies of Quaker. Since most Quakers were exported from within the range of this subspecies most pets in the US should belong to this subspecies.

M. m. calita

Range: Western Argentina

Wing length: 13.6-14.4 cm

Weight: 100g

Note: The size difference is the best way to tell this from M. m. monachus. If your bird is small it may be this subspecies or M. m. cotorra (see below).

M. m. cotorra

Range: Se. Bolivia, Paraguay and s. Brazil

Wing length: 13.1-14.7 cm

Weight: 100g

Note: This subspecies and calita are very hard to distinguish. M. m. cotorra supposedly is brighter green above and have less yellow below than calita.

M. m. luchsi (a.k.a. the Cliff Parakeet)

Range: Central Bolivia, geographically isolated from all other subspecies

Wing length: 146-163

Note: This is best told from the others by its distinctive plumage. The gray of the breast is uniform, not scaled. On all other subspecies the breast feathers are darker gray in the center with a lighter border giving the breast a scaled appearance. In addition, the gray on the forehead is whiter and extends to the mid crown in M. m. luchsi. The band on the upper abdomen is also purer yellow.

This bird gets its name because it builds its stick nests on cliffs in the deep valleys where it lives. This bird has recently been considered a different species Myiopsitta luchsi the Cliff Parakeet by Collar 1997 (see below for reference). Any aviculturists who have these birds should make a conscious effort to breed them with other Cliff Parakeets to help preserve captive populations of this globally uncommon species.

Adapted from N. J. Collar. 1997. Family Psittacidae. in Handbook of Birds of the World Volume 4 Lynx Ediciones Barcelona, Spain.

*article source: http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/Monk%20Parakeets.html

The Cliff Parakeet Subspecies of the Quaker Parakeet

This is an excerpt from an article written by Donald Brightsmith that was published in Bird Talk Magazine.
article source: http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/Monk%20Parakeets.htm 

What is a Cliff Parakeet anyhow?

Most experts list four different subspecies of Quakers. If you are curious about what subspecies you may have and want to know where it came from, check sidebar 1. It is uncertain calita and cotorra are really different enough to be called subspecies, but the others are significantly different from each other and are thought to be good subspecies. In fact the Nigel Collar in his chapter on Parrots for the Handbook of Birds of the World considers M. m. luchsi so different from the other subspecies that he calls it a different species, the Cliff Parakeet. This form has a very small range in the wild, occupying only a small number of valleys in central Bolivia. Some birds were exported from Bolivia so it is possible that some pet birds in the US belong to this species. If you or anyone you know has one of these, it would be great if you could find another Cliff Parakeet owner and breed this form which is undoubtedly very rare in captivity.

Nesting: Apartments built to suit.

The most characteristic thing about wild Quakers is their nest. They are the only parrots in the world where colonies cooperate to build a stick nest. Each pair builds its own nesting chamber out of sticks. Thorny sticks are the preferred building material as they are thought to stick together better and help deter predators. Each nesting area consisting of an entrance, usually located on the bottom of the nest and facing down to help deter predators. The entrance leads to a short tunnel that widens in to a porch where the birds can turn around and pair members can pass each other during nest visits. This porch then opens in to a large globular chamber where the birds lay their eggs and raise the young. Some pairs will go out on their own and nest in isolated nests but most nests are group affairs containing 2-20 chambers where multiple pairs nest at the same time. In exceptional cases the nests can get quite impressive. One nest on a tower in Argentina contained over 200 different nesting chambers and probably weighed in excess of 2,600 lbs!

These massive structures are usually constructed in tall isolated trees and artificial structures like telephone poles, towers, silos, buildings and even fire escapes. These massive structures on tall isolated structures are a conspicuous part of the landscape and do not go unnoticed by their animal neighbors. In Connecticut a Great-horned Owl nested right on top of a huge Quaker nest, and the Quakers continued nesting right underneath their large and dangerous guest. In other instances the interactions between Quakers and their guests are less amicable. Starlings and House Sparrows often try to occupy chambers in the Quaker nests. But the Quaker’s don’t take kindly to this and can usually drive away the unwanted squatters. In one instance a House Sparrow was found dead after a prolonged squabble with Quakers over a nest site. In Argentina the tables are sometimes turned on the birds. The Spot-winged Falconet is a particularly unwelcome visitor as it hunts both adult and young Quakers and then even usurps the nest to raise their own young. These falconets prefer to take over isolated nests with only one compartment giving the Quakers more reason to nest in a colony.

Quakers are not always the innocent victims in cases of nest takeovers; they are known to do their fair share of squatting as well. In Florida they have been found nesting in the lower levels of Osprey nests. In South America the practice is even more widespread. In a study in Argentina Jessica Eberhard found that over half of the Quaker nests were remodeled nests of the Brown Cacholote (10-inch long, jay-like birds that also make large stick nests up to 7 ft. across). Jessica suggests a that the Quakers’ nest building behavior may have evolved first as a habit of using, or stealing, the nests of other birds; then as the ability to fix dilapidated nests; then finally the birds evolved the ability to build their own nests.

Whatever the way it evolved, these impressive nests may just be the key to their current success both in South America and the US. These nests free the birds from dependence on the naturally occurring tree cavities that limit the populations of so many other parrots worldwide. The parakeets just need sticks and any tall sturdy structure. These nests also provide another unexpected advantage. They keep the birds warm. Quaker Parakeets sleep in their nests year round and temperatures inside these nests remain significantly warmer than the winter air outside. This may help explain how Quakers survived winters in Chicago where the temperature dropped as low as -27° F. The Quakers are not the only parrots that knew the trick of staying inside in the coldest weather. The Carolina Parakeet, which also occurred as far north as the Chicago area, was reported to have kept warm on the coldest nights by roosting in large groups inside hollow trees

The nest is not the only key to the Quaker’s cold tolerance. Experiments have shown that the birds have a great ability to tolerate temperature extremes. At 17° F healthy Quakers showed no signs of hypothermia. The birds also showed a great deal of heat tolerance as well. At 111° F the birds were still easily able to control their body temperature.

[Note the birds in these experiments were in a controlled laboratory setting with no wind and no direct sun, the author does not suggest that you expose your birds to such extremes of temperature without careful consideration]. The birds kept cool not by sweating like we do, but by opening their beaks and panting much like a dog.

The wonderful nests of these parakeets are not without a down side. The fact that they are occupied year round provides nest parasites with a steady food supply. In South America nests are inhabited by two different blood-sucking parasites: a kissing bug (Triatoma platensis) and a cimid bug (Psiticimex uritui). The cimid bug is completely dependant on Quakers and is found only in the nests of these parakeets. Large nests may contain thousands of these parasites. The desire to escape hoards of parasites may help explain why as many as 50% of the pairs switch nests every year and why some birds may go off and start new nests on their own, even when other colonies are available nearby.

Even when the pairs decide to switch nests they don’t go very far. In fact Quakers seem to be homebodies for the most part. When adults switch nests between years they choose a new site on average about 550 yards away. The furthest such move recorded was only about half a mile. Young of most birds are known to nest long distances from where they were raised. In the parrots that have been studied, most young go on average over 10 miles before settling down to nest, but not the stay-at-home Quakers. On average they locate their nests only a quarter mile from where they were raised. This low rate of dispersal is particularly surprising because they may travel as far as 15 miles from the nest to gather food. The incredibly low rate of dispersal is thought to be a major reason why the species has not spread explosively across the US as officials from agriculture departments nationwide once feared.

Food, agriculture and eradication: Are Quakers the demons they are made out to be?

Wild Quakers in the wild eat a mixture of seeds, buds, fruits, nuts and flowers. In South America they prefer thistle and grass seeds. Perching on a grass stem to eat the seeds can be rather challenging for a bird the size and weight of a Quaker. To get around this problem the birds have been seen hovering and plucking the seed heads off these plants then carrying them off to sturdier perches to eat. Quakers also eat the fruits of palms and other native trees. In Chicago the birds eat a variety of different items including weeds like plantain and dandelion; buds from elm, birch, ash and maple trees; fruits like mulberries, apples, and crabapples; berries from holly and juniper and seed from birdfeeders. In Chicago it is thought that without the food from residential bird feeders the species would not be able to survive because almost all of their food comes from these sources in the winter. This may not be the case in Connecticut where there is a greater abundance of winter foods available

It is the Quaker’s reputation for raiding agricultural crops that has brought them in to the greatest conflict with man. In South America the species is known to eat corn, sunflower, sorghum, peaches and pears. This taste for commercially valuable crops has led to their persecution both in South America and the US. In South America the species has been persecuted for over 150 years. Argentineans have used a wide variety of methods to control the populations. They shoot the birds, burn the nests, snare adults at favorite perches, net birds and put out poisoned baits. Even putting bounties on the birds and exporting thousands for the pet trade has not reduced their populations significantly. From 1958 – 1960 in one province in Argentina bounty was paid on 427,206 Quakers killed by local citizens. This is over twice as many as the number listed on US importation records. Yet the populations continue to increase, showing that these campaigns are ineffective. The failure of these campaigns is due to a misunderstandig of the biology of the species. A large proportion of the individuals do not breed each year. So as breeders are killed, non-breeders usually step in and take their place. This means that as much as 30-50% of the population may need to be killed off before the number of breeders is reduced.

In the US the US Fish and Wildlife Service began an eradication campaign in 1973 to help control the potential spread of Quakers in the US. 163 birds were killed, mostly in New York, New Jersey, Virginia, and California but within a few years the campaign faded out without having eradicated the species. Today fifteen states regulate or ban the ownership and transport of the species (see Bird Talk January 2000) because of the supposed threat they pose to agriculture.

How serious a threat are Quakers to agriculture? This is the $1,000 question and with most such questions the answer is unknown. In Argentina they definitely do eat crops and have caused damage. Unfortunately there has never been any independent measure of the financial impact this has had on farmers, so the only figures come from the farmers themselves and are considered less than reliable. The effects on fruit orchards are considered negligible and for grain crops the effects are unknown. In the US all populations of the species are confined to urban and suburban areas and the only potentially valuable crops they are reported feeding on are apples and mulberries. In fact Spreyer and Bucher list no complaints from farmers in their paper, not even in Florida where the species is the most abundant and tropical fruit orchards occur close to major Quaker population centers like Miami. Given that this species require a variety of fruits and seeds available year round, their current restriction to urban and suburban habitats, and their sedentary nature it seems that their potential for causing great damage to US agriculture is minimal.

For more information on Quaker Parakeets please see Spreyer, M. F. and E. H. Butcher 1998. Monk Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus). In The Birds of North America, No. 322 (A. Poole and F. Gill, eds.). the Birds of North America, Inc. Philadelphia, PA. Available at most larger libraries.

The Quaker Parakeet

This is an excerpt from an article by Donald Brightsmith that was orginally published in Bird Talk Magazine.
article source: http://vtpb-www2.cvm.tamu.edu/brightsmith/Monk%20Parakeets.htm

They are able to survive temperatures of -27° F . They are able to build stick nests weighing up to 2,600 lbs. They are able to survive intense government eradication campaigns, and of course able to clear tall buildings in a single glide. It’s the famous Quaker Parakeet. My goal today is not to share info on the keeping and personality of this species (see December 1999 Bird Talk for an excellent article on this), but to show you a completely different view of the Quaker Parakeet: the wild side of Quakers. This article is based on information from the Monk Parakeet Birds of North America Species Account written by Mark Spreyer and Enrique Butcher. Mark has experience with introduced populations in the US and Dr. Butcher is an Argentinean who has dedicated many years to the study of these birds in their native habitat and this team has done an outstanding job of summarizing what is known about wild Quakers. So, join me as we explore the often surprising lives of this extremely popular species.

The Quaker Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus), or Monk Parakeet as most ornithologists call it, is so well known in aviculture because over 200,000 have been imported into the US since the late 1960’s. Quakers are native to the southern part of South America from S. Brazil and Bolivia to central Argentina. They do not inhabit the typical jungle habitats that so many associate with South America, instead they are found mostly in open areas including savannahs and lightly wooded areas. They are completely absent from large areas of dense forest. In fact they do not even occur within the famed rainforests of the Amazon Basin. Perhaps because of this habitat preference they are not a rare and endangered species on the verge of extinction. In fact the species is doing extremely well in South America. In the large grasslands, or pampas, of Argentina the species is rapidly expanding its range as settlers plant Eucalyptus trees near there houses. These trees provide the parakeets the only thing that these open grasslands lack, places to nest. So unlike so many parrots, the Quakers are doing just fine in their native homes in South America.

In the US the importation of 200,000 + birds meant that inevitably some would escape. Some pets escaped from their owners and some owners escaped from their pets (releasing the birds after tiring of their less than soothing calls). Some zoos reportedly released flocks of birds and some escaped from damaged importation crates. All of this added up to lots of escaped birds in many different areas of the country. In fact the species is the most abundant free-flying parrot in the US and has been seen in at least 30 different states. Today there are naturalized breeding populations established in 11 different states including Alabama, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Illinois, Louisiana, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Rhode Island, and Texas. These US populations are confined almost exclusively to urban or suburban areas. Here the mixture of native and exotic tree species interspersed among the houses must provide sufficient food and a structure similar enough to their native savannah homes. The US the populations also seem to be doing very well. Results from Christmas counts in a variety of states show that populations in parts of Connecticut, Illinois, Texas and Florida have dramatically increased. Nowhere is this clearer than in Florida where numbers recorded on Christmas Bird Counts jumped from less than 4 per year in the early 70’s to over 1,000 per year in the early 1990’s.

What Kind of Toys are Safe for My Pet Parakeet?

Small bird toys designed for small birds like parakeets should be carefully evaluated before letting your parakeet play with them. Many of the plastic toys intended for parakeets are actually unsafe and can be very hazardous to the health of your bird.

Cheap (and some not so cheap) plastic toys can easily break with excessive play or normal wear and tear. Unfortunately, many types of plastic will break into small, sharp shards. Your parakeet can easily cut itself on the sharp edges that can be formed once the plastic breaks or (in extreme cases) can even be swallowed and cut your parakeet's intestines, stomach, and throat.


Clear, hard plastic bird toy parts are most likely to break into sharp pieces. Plastic toys built for chewing are safer, but you have to know your bird. Will your budgie just chew up the toy, or is she the type of parakeet that eats plastic given the chance? Ingested plastic can impact a bird's intestines or crop—either way the parrot will need veterinary attention.
Rope toys are great fun for all types of birds, including your parakeet. Rope and thread can be groomed and shredded if it becomes frayed. Some birds will love swinging on rope toys. If you use rope toys, be sure to check them on a regularly for signs of fraying and tangles. Your parakeet can easily get a claw caught in a frayed or knotted rope. The result can can cause the bird to panic and possibly even lead to broken bones. If the bird gets caught in the rope toy when your are away from the home, its frantic efforts to free itself could lead to panic-induced heart attacks. Yes your bird can literally over exert itself.

One way to avoid such accidents is to only let your bird play on them under close supervision in a special play area separate from their bird cage.

A similar fraying problem can occur with “happy huts,” soft cloth burrows that hang in bird cages. Many parakeets like to burrow into these huts to roost. They’re a great bird accessory, but should be frequently checked for frayed corners and other loose strings in order to prevent accidents.

Many parakeet toys include bells. A bell can be a great addition to a parakeet toy, but only if it’s made out of the right material. For example, metals coated with zinc are sometimes used to make these such toys. If your parakeet chews on bells or other metal toy parts that are zinc coated, it can develop zinc toxicity. This can lead to death.

Symptoms of zinc toxicity include regurgitation, diarrhea, weight loss and, in sever cases, seizures. Feather plucking can also occur due to zinc toxicity. Treatment for zinc toxicity is often successful with an early diagnosis. However avoiding zinc coated parakeet toy parts and cages altogether will always be the best prevention for zinc toxicity.

How can I Train my Parakeet to Talk?

Parakeets are small, vibrant and lively birds that can be a wonderful addition to any family. Some parakeets will learn to talk without any coaching or training. However, some will require more encouragement to get them to start talking. Some parakeets will only start talking after their owners let them hear specific phrases, words and sounds. If you successfully train a parakeet to talk, you and your family will love your pet even more.

A nourished and well cared for parakeet will be more likely demonstrate an interest in repeating sounds as well as talking. A parakeet that is watered, well-fed, and has a mirror and other playthings in its cage is the best inspiration for speech training. This is for the same reason that other loved pets will want to gain knowledge on how they can communicate effectively with their master.

It's important to note that male parakeets are known to be very good talkers. So if you want to have an outspoken parakeet, it's best to adopt a male parakeet as your pet. However, this doesn't mean that female parakeets just make sounds and do not talk. In general though, the female birds are slower in adapting new words and training a female bird might not give you the results you are looking for.

Remember, even if you choose to train a parakeet that is a male, it doesn't give you a guarantee that it will talk. Some parakeets will only become skillful in whistling, because talking is not a talent every parakeet desires to learn. You should be patient enough to see results. Some breeds of parakeets that are more likely to utter words are the Alexandrine, Australian, English, Plum-head and Ring-necked parakeets. They are also known for having the ability to distinguish individual objects and even people.

Parakeets find it easier to repeat or reiterate words that have hard syllables. You should examine what words are more difficult to speak than others. One of the common phrases parakeets speak is "pretty birdie". This specific phrase is made up of hard syllables that make it easier for talking birds like parakeets to repeat or mimic. You should think of words and phrases containing hard syllables and say them to your bird frequently.

Birds respond well with a dark surrounding. So when you start your training session, you should darken the room to get your parakeet's full attention. Begin by saying a phrase or word and repeat it several times. Teach your bird three times a day for about fifteen minutes each. Don't get disappointed if your parakeet doesn't talk immediately. Keep in mind that most birds will take several days or even weeks before it will speak the phrase or word you're trying to teach.

If you go to work during weekdays, consider making speech training sessions on a recorded tape and leave it to someone who stays in your house. This will not only save you time and effort but the training will be more consistent with this strategy.

If you follow these steps to train your parakeet, your pet will start repeating sounds and words in no time. This will also make your parakeet the center of attention in your home, making you the proudest mentor ever.

How to Buy the Right Cage for Your Parakeet

Before you actually buy a parakeet and bring it home, you should already have a cage already set up for it.  As this will be where your new parakeet spends most of its time, it's important that you pick out the right cage.

Shape

An important consideration to make when choosing a cage for your parakeet is the shape.  There are many available shapes that you can choose from.  However, it's best to buy a rectangular design.  Never buy your bird a round cage because they won't feel as safe.  It is important that it have a wall to retreat to when it gets spooked.

Material

You will also need to decide what type of material you want the cage to be made from. Some of the best options include wrought iron and stainless steel. Some cages will be made from brass, lead, zinc, or galvanized steel. You should never buy your parakeet a cage made from one of these materials. Parakeets love to chew, and the toxic metals will more than likely kill them.

Size

One of the most important considerations when buying your parakeet a cage is the size. Never buy your bird a cage that's too small.  At the very least, there should be enough room to allow the parakeet to stretch its wings fully without hitting either side of the cage.  You should try to buy the biggest cage that you can afford.

Bar Spacing

It's vital that you pay close attention to the bar spacing of the cage you're interested in buying.  The bars should be no more than 1/2-inch apart. The reason for this is that you don't want your parakeet to try to stick its head through the bars and get stuck

How to Tell if Your Parakeet is Sick

If you own of your parakeet long enough, chances are it will get sick sooner or later. Your parakeet will do its best to hide whatever is wrong with it. So it's important that you learn to recognize the signs of a sick parakeet.  Here are a few factors to take in to consideration.

Droppings

One of the most common symptoms of a health condition is a change in your parakeet's droppings.  It may change color, be watery, or appear looser than usual. Also, take note if you happen to spot seeds in the droppings. However, a change in droppings can sometimes just be due to a minor cause such as a change in food.

Appetite

Speaking of food, one of the next common signs of a sick parakeet is a change in appetite. You should also be aware of your parakeet's eating habits. That way, you can easily tell if it changes  from day to day. So, be on the lookout for excessive eating or a reduced appetite. If your parakeet has a reduced appetite it will also start losing weight.

Feathers

The appearance of your bird's feathers can also tell you if something is wrong. They shouldn't be ruffled or puffed up for long periods of time. They also shouldn't be discolored. So be on the lookout for these changes.

Discharge

The appearance of discharge can also tell you if there is something wrong with your bird.  Sick birds can sometimes produce discharge from their nostrils or even their eyes. This may also be accompanied by sneezing and/or eye swelling.  These are usually very serious symptoms that require prompt attention. Take your parakeet to the vet immediately.

Breathing

A sick parakeet may also experience some difficulty breathing. You should especially look for rapid breathing, wheezing, or breathing through an open mouth.  Some parakeets may also bob their tail with each breath they take.

Check back tomorrow because I have another great post for you.

Things to Look for When Buying a Parakeet

Parakeets are one of the most common types of birds that are purchased for pets. These unique pets are usually friendly and easy to handle. They can sometimes be difficult to understand. However, with a little hard work they have been known to mimic our sounds or "talk".

Here Are Some Parakeet Facts:

Parakeets have an expected life span of 10-15 years (some have even been known to live up to 20 years). They originated from  Australia. The normal wild coloration is said to be green with black bars on the wings, back and head. Other colors seen in parakeets are blue, yellow, and white.

How do I know if my parakeet is a male or female?

The area around the nostirls is called the cere. You can use this as a way to distinguish between males and females. For example, mature females will have a beige colored cere. While males will have a blue tint to their cere.

What about their temperament?

Parakeets are known for being a very docile and friendly bird. They can be easily tamed, especially if you aquire them while young. I've found that having more than one parakeet at a time resulted in the parakeets being hard to handle and less vocal. When I have just one parakeet, the bird looked to me for interaction and was much easier to handle and actually could say a few words. I placed a parakeet mirror in the cage and was amazed at how much my parakeet played with his own image in the mirror.

How do I choose a parakeet?

I highly recommend you choose a young bird that has been handled regularly and has been hand fed. The extra costs you experience buying a hand raised bird will be worth it in the long run. While there is nothing wrong with a store bought parakeet, my experiences have taught me that they are slower to adjust to being handled. Don't fall into the trap of picking a bird based solely on its color.

Use the same techniques you would use when buying a pet dog or cat. Look for a parakeet that is active and has shining and smooth feathers. A bird that is inactive and has its feathers puffed up may be a sign that it is sick. Also, take note of the birds feet. Make sure the scales are smooth and the nails are in good shape. Don't forget to inspect the birds beak for any problems.

Parakeets are very playful and active and do well in large cages. A friend always kept his parakeets on top of his refrigerator. He even bought a cage that would fill the entire top of the frig. Add a couple of rod perches and maybe a bird swing along with the water and feed bowls. However, even with a large cage like my friends, parakeets still need a little time outside of the cage as well. Letting them out once in a while to stretch their wings is a good idea. The exercise is very benefical for your pet bird. This also helps them to bond with you because they will relate the freedom to you. Just like training any other animal you want them to associate good things with you and with what you are trying to teach them.

Check back tomorrow for more great info on parakeets.

Tips for Caring for Your Parakeet

Parakeets are a very popular choice for pets.  They can be very sociable and playful.  They also come in many different colors. So you can easily find the perfect one for you.  If you're thinking about buying a parakeet there are a few things you'll need to know first.  Here are some tips to taking care of a parakeet.

What type of cage should I use?

The type of cage you buy is very important.  Make sure that the cage is big enough for your parakeet to spread its wings completely without hitting the side.  Also, the door should be big enough for you to easily reach inside to get your parakeet out.  Although there are cages available in many shapes, it's best to get a rectangular design.

How do I bathe or clean my parakeet?

When taking care of parakeets, it's important that you bathe them frequently.  It's best to do so two or three times each week. This may sound weird but think about how often you see wild birds "bathing". Some birds like a dedicated water dish that they can use for bathing.  Others like it better if you use a spray bottle to mist them with water.  Whichever method your parakeet uses, make sure they are bathed in the morning.  This will give their feathers time to dry off before night when it will be cooler.

What about trimming the feathers?

It's important that your bird gets exercise time out of its cage.  If you let your parakeet out, it's best that you have their wings trimmed (also known as clipped) so that it can't fly away.  You will also need to trim their toe nails periodically whenever they get too sharp.  The beak will also get sharp and need to be trimmed with an emery board too. You can also purchase products that your parakeet will "nibble" on while also trimming its beak.

Will my bird get lonely without a mate?

When taking care of parakeets, you should know that they are very sociable.  Your bird will feel a lot less lonely if you provide them with another parakeet to keep him company.  However, this will severely reduce the bond that you share with your bird.  This is due to the fact that birds would rather bond with each other than humans Just as humans would rather bond with humans before birds. Well maybe not all of us ;)

Check back tomorrow for another great post on parakeets.